MOQUECA DE CAMARÃON (BRAZILIAN SHRIMP STEW)

SERVES 6

ACTIVE TIME: 25 MIN

START TO FINISH: 45 MIN

Dendê (palm) oil brings to the cooking of coastal Brazil what drums bring to samba: an insistent underlying sensuality. It transforms the coconut milk with its deep orange-red color and makes the flavor of the shrimp sing. But it is as perishable as it is seductive, so smell it before you use it.

1 1/4 lb large shrimp in shell (21 to 25 per lb), peeled and deveined

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 (14- to 15-oz) can diced tomatoes including juice

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 green bell pepper, finely chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

5 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

1 cup well-stirred canned unsweetened coconut milk

1 tablespoon dendê (palm) oil (see cooks' note, below)

ACCOMPANIMENT: cooked white rice

Toss shrimp with black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, garlic, and lemon juice and marinate, covered and chilled, 20 minutes.

Purée tomatoes with juice in a blender until smooth.

Cook onion and bell pepper in olive oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately low heat, stirring, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add cayenne, 1 tablespoon cilantro, and remaining teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add tomato purée and simmer briskly, stirring, until mixture is very thick, about 15 minutes. Stir in coconut milk and bring to a boil, then add shrimp mixture and cook, stirring, until shrimp are just cooked through, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Stir in dendê oil and remaining 4 tablespoons cilantro and season with salt and pepper.

COOKS' NOTE: Dendê oil is available at Brazilian and West African markets and Kalustyan's (800-352-3451).